By Karl Schoeler
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\r\nWater quality is your first line of defense in keeping your fish (Koi/goldfish) healthy.
\r\nAll fish have immune systems and will protect themselves when the water quality is excellent and the water quality is stable. Your pond or quarantine tank water should be tested frequently to insure the health of the water and thus the health of the fish.
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\r\nStability of Ph:
\r\nTest the Ph of your tap or well water. Test the Ph of your pond. Make comparisons over a few days to establish what Ph your pond water should be on average. Pond Ph may be 7.0 to 9.0 but should be stable in a range of .3. If your pond tests at 7.5 it should maintain that level or similar to a low of 7.2 and a high of 7.8 over 24 to 48 hours. Ph crashes are generally caused by a low level of carbonate hardness. Carbonate hardness or Kh levels above 100 will prevent such Ph crashes and protect the health of your fish. Kh levels of 200 are required for bead filters.
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\r\nStability of carbonate hardness (Kh):
\r\nCarbonate Hardness = Total Alkalinity. Test the Kh of the tap or well water. Test the Kh of the pond. Make comparisons over a few days to establish your Kh average. Kh is the buffering ability of your water to hold the Ph at a safe level. Kh should test no less that 100. In the event of low Kh readings baking soda works exceedingly well to maintain proper levels, and can be added without fear of harming the fish. In addition crushed oyster shells or crushed coral can be bagged and placed in filters or in water current areas to buffer the water on a long term basis.
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\r\nOne further note: If you have a bead filter in your filtration system, the Kh must be kept at 200 ppm or more for it to function properly.
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\r\nBaking soda: 2 to 3lbs per 1000 gallons will raise and stabilize Kh levels and keep the Ph at 8.3 to 8.4. Raise your Ph/Kh slowly over several days. Use maintenance doses of baking soda to keep them at a desired level.
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\r\nWater quality testing and water quality in general insures pond health. Establish a baseline by testing your "raw water". Then periodically test your pond water. In the event of a Koi behavioral problem or fatality testing is very important. In addition, water samples may need to be sent to an outside lab for heavy metal testing. Water test kits should include Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Ph, General Hardness, and Carbonate Hardness at a minimum. If you post on this forum with sick fish issues you will be asked for your test results. We will need them to make a proper recommendation for treatment.
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\r\nWater Tests and Associated Information
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\r\nPond Parameters:
\r\nAmmonia
\r\nNitrite
\r\nNitrate
\r\nGH-general hardness
\r\nKH-carbonate hardness or total alkalinity
\r\nPH
\r\nPond temperature.
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\r\nIdeal Water Parameter Guidelines
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\r\nSource water varies greatly so make sure that it is tested to give you a base line to work with. Pond water can vary depending on the load, the filtration and type and how well the water is managed through water changes.
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\r\nHere are some guidelines: Although your pond may not fit exactly within them it is important to note that consistency is equally if not more important than the test results themselves.
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\r\npH: Between 7.2 to 8.3 but consistent and not a lot of swing.
\r\nAmmonia: "0". Always.
\r\nNitrite: "0". Always.
\r\nNitrate: "0". Almost never is. A trace is fine. More than that do a water change.
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\r\nKH: Carbonate hardness/Total Alkalinity: About 200ppm. Bead filters require high KH. KH stabilizes buffers) the pH and prevents any crashes. Baking soda works well for this if dosed regularly.
\r\nGH: General Hardness is measured in grains or ppm. "0" hardness is soft water. Although there are those who might disagree, any hardness IS hard water. It's just a matter of degree. Although hardness can be altered, it can be expensive and it can reduce the overall stability of the pond as softeners do malfunction.
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\r\nOther tests worth looking at:
\r\nDissolved Oxygen
\r\nIron
\r\nPhosphates
\r\nI'm sure there are others.

Water changes, filtration and aeration:
\r\nConsistent and frequent water changes are required for nearly every pond, quarantine tank or aquarium. 10% to 20% weekly water changes are considered customary depending on the number and size of the fish and the size of the pond. This is the only way nitrates (the final result of pond cycling) can be removed. It is also the only way besides filtration to reduce the concentration of minerals and contaminants in the pond.
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\r\nAlmost any pond with fish needs adequate filtration as well as aeration for the health of the fish. These two issues must be addressed but the type of filtration and how aeration is accomplished is better considered in the Pond Construction phase.
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\r\nWater changes usually means the addition of a dechlorinator as most mains water contains at least some chlorine and/or Chloramine. Treat accordingly and dose it at the same time in the same manner every time so that it becomes a habit and is not forgotten.
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\r\nWater changes also means actually pumping or siphoning out a percentage of the existing pond water-not just adding to it-and making sure the new water TEMPERATURE matches that of the pond or tank involved.